“An old building is like a show. You smell the soul of an old building. And the building tells you how to redo it.” – Cameron Mackintosh
by Luke Schmaltz
Casa Bonita stands shuttered alongside West Colfax like a circus gelding locked in a corral for which there is no key. First opened in 1974, the one-of-a-kind survivor from a bygone era is a testament to the optimism, pageantry and imagination of the previous century. But alas, it is currently silent as a result of COVID-19.
The Pink Palace is in the red. This 85-foot, 22-karat-gold domed tower can be seen for miles around.
As it was for most other Colorado restaurants, the mandatory order to close in March of 2020 was a crippling blow. Rather than partially reopen in May of 2020, Casa Bonita management chose to forgo the near-impossible strictures that social distancing would have placed on an entertainment concept built on human interaction.
Finally, more than a year later, there are rumblings of reopening — and a notice on the restaurant’s website confirms these murmurs. Yet, if there’s anything the last year has taught people, it is to not believe everything you read online. This is why a group of Denver residents and longtime natives who have lasting memories of this cherished institution are not going to take the possible death of fun sitting down.
Locals To The Rescue
Savecasabonita.org is a recently-launched initiative intent on spreading awareness of the cultural and historical importance of 52,000-square-foot restaurant, Casa Bonita. Led by Denver icon and Casa Bonita superfan Andrew Novick, this collective of innovators and entrepreneurs represents a larger segment of the Mile High populace that feels this beloved destination deserves another chance. “We have a large group of people in our consortium,” Novick begins. “The group we put together is made up of restaurateurs, folks who have built businesses from the ground up and branding experts. One of our people is a Latina businesswoman and we’ve talked a lot about the food and the cultural appropriation of Casa Bonita. The last thing we want to do is be a bunch of white men running a Mexican restaurant.”
Proponents don’t want Casa Bonita to suffer the fate of The Miner in Black Bart’s Cave. Photo by Andrew Novick
An Unforgettable Experience
For those who have never been there, a visit to Casa Bonita is an immersion into experiential art, culture, kitsch and otherworldly wonder. It’s an escapade into a circus-like realm of cliff divers, puppeteers, gunfighters, family photos, cave adventures, arcade overindulgence and a hype man in a gorilla suit. And yes, there’s the Mexican fare, which can leave a bit to be desired at times, but the meals always finish strong with delectable honey-soaked sopapillas. “It’s always been about the experience, not the food.” Novick explains. “I mean, how many restaurants last for [almost] 50 years?”
Money Talks
Andrew Novick is Casa Bonita’s #1 fan. Photo by Jerilee Bennett.
Rather than attempt to influence the owners of Casa Bonita via community petition, Novick and his associates chose to start a GoFundMe campaign, as a monetary donation signifies a greater commitment than just a signature. With a goal of $100,000, the fund is quickly gaining steam and, at the time of this writing, sits at nearly half of the way in just three weeks. Novick is quick to point out that the money is not intended to pay any current debts the restaurant’s parent company may have outstanding. Rather, the funds would serve as a capital-bolstered basis for participating in the conversation about the future of the restaurant. Novick explains, “We are fundraising to have the power to have a voice in the conversation.” This could play out in any number of ways, from funding a PR campaign to advertise a grand re-opening to procuring legal counsel to broker a deal between the current owners and potential new investors.
A Wild Ride
Casa Bonita’s centerpiece, 30-foot-tall indoor waterfall is modeled after the cliffs of Acapulco and pumps 26,427,000 gallons of water per year, which supplies its 14-foot-deep pool into which cliff divers and actors plunge during the shows.
Understanding the history of the Casa Bonita ownership can be as overwhelming as a visitor’s first foray into Black Bart’s Cave. Initially, it was one component in a chain of themed restaurants that began in Oklahoma City, and branched out to Tulsa, Okla.; Little Rock, Ark.; Fort Worth, Texas; and Lakewood, Colo. The chain was the brainchild of artist, innovator and business mogul Bill Waugh, who was responsible for numerous spectacles of themed entertainment including the Crystal’s Pizza and Taco Bueno chains. In 1982, Waugh sold his company to Unigate, who, in 1992, sold it to CKE restaurants (owners of Carl’s Jr.) who then created a spin-off company in 1997 for the two remaining locations. Today, that company is known as Summit Family Restaurants which is a subsidiary of Star Buffet. When it comes to a discussion about the current state of affairs at the Pink Palace, however, no one at either entity is currently available for comment.
Stay Positive
Meanwhile, Novick and company are holding out for a positive outcome wherein the company culture is modernized, the menu is updated and the Casa Bonita fun machine gets jump started back into action. “We want to make sure that in the future, we (savecasabonita.org) are an important voice,” Novick says. “Whether someone else procures it or if they reopen, we want them to know we are the voice of the community and the fans. The funds we generate could be used to create awareness of the reopening and to revitalize the work environment for employees.” An electrical engineer by trade, Novick is also a realist. Concerning a scenario where the funds raised by savecasabonita.org do not afford them a seat at the negotiation table to have their voice heard by the owners or future buyers, he clarifies, “I want to point out that should the funds not be put to use, all donations will be immediately returned to the donors.”
Dream On
Casa Bonita is a Landmark of the Lakewood Historical Society.
As far as procurement of the intellectual property and the business model goes, just like any dedicated Casa Bonita regular, Novick and company are also dreamers. Ideally, Trey Parker and Matt Stone (creators of South Park) would swoop in, buy out Star Buffet, and entrust the locals to run the zoo. The duo made Casa Bonita a worldwide household name in a 2004 South Park episode which prominently featured the restaurant in all of its fantastically ridiculous glory. In this “everyone wins” scenario Novick, who celebrated his 300th visit to Casa Bonita in 2019 with a wildly successful charity event, could play an integral role. “I’ve done food events, experiential events and experiential art,” he explains. “I feel my role could be VP of experience.”
For now, however, the reality of the situation is that a huge piece of Denver history and yet another beacon of the soul of the city is at stake. Star Buffet filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on April 6, 2021. So, the harsh fact of the matter is that currently, it’s all about money.