Two Of Denver’s Dining Icons Close Their Doors

by Jessica Hughes

In the wake of the pandemic, current inflation, the Great Resignation, and Denver’s expensive costs, it’s no wonder local restaurants are finding it hard to hang on. While the average life of a restaurant is only five years, two Denver restaurants weathered the storm for years but have made the decision to close in light of these tough times.

Bonnie Brae Tavern, the one-time dining nexus of Cherry Creek, and one of Denver’s oldest restaurants, closed its doors at the end of June after operating for 88 years as one of the city’s top places to grab a pizza and a beer. For nearly a half-dozen years in the late ’70s and ’80s people waited an hour for dinner at the restaurant-tavern. Built in 1934, the 88-year-old structure at 740 S. University Blvd. closed permanently at the end of June.

The Tavern ran as a family-owned and operated business for nearly nine decades but after a decline in business, a spike in property taxes, the pandemic, and their most recent roadblock of staffing issues, the tavern made the hard choice to sell. The property sold for $4.5 Million and the building will be demolished to make way for construction of a three-story, practically half-block long apartment complex.

Purchase of the Bonnie Brae Tavern’s 0.72-acre property is being led by two Denver investment pros. They are Churchill Bunn of Alpine Investments and Rhys Duggan of Revesco Properties. The pair often collaborate on local projects. Among jobs they have recently worked together on include a Golden Triangle project on Bannock St., and Chestnut Place in Union Station North. The only thing the twosome have said so far is that, “We are in the initial stages of concept planning for a three-story apartment project.” The project’s demolition order remains valid through May 2024.

The sale of the property and eventual demolition was inevitable after staffing, plumbing, electrical, and keeping up with the trends issues. “Our staff went from 32 employees to 14 and wee couldn’t find any help; staffing has been a real issue,” explains Michael Dire, one of the owners and grandson of the original owners of Bonnie Brae Tavern. “We’re an old-style restaurant and our menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but people’s tastes have changed. I guess we just didn’t stay up with the food trends.”

Michael and the tavern’s other owners received multiple inquiries over the years and had thought about redeveloping the restaurant itself, but not everyone was on board. The Dire family sold the restaurant and adjoining building to developers for $4.5 million at the end of May. While the new neighbors will plan to build apartments, they intend to keep the neon sign along with some of the pictures from the restaurant as a tribute to the restaurant.

It’s a family affair at the Tavern. Since Sue and Carl Dire, Michael’s grandparents, opened Bonnie Brae Tavern in 1934, Michael’s dad and uncle started working at the restaurant, and soon following in his father’s footsteps, Michael began working there 40 years ago, along with his cousin Ricky Dire who has been there since he was 15 years old. Even Michael’s children work at the family’s business, managing, and waiting tables.

“I think they would be very proud about the business being around for 88 years, but they would be sad that the legacy is ending though,” expresses Michael.

The Tavern has received mixed reactions from the public, some that understand the transition, and others who think they sold out. Shopping district restaurants and retailers along S. University Blvd. plus homeowners in the surrounding neighborhoods are concerned and anxious about community consequences. Questions abound about how the development will change the neighborhood and their lives:

Will the sale attract chain retails and the influx of commercial buildings that will erase the area’s character? Is it likely the apartments will alter who lives on the nearby streets and in neighborhoods? Are longtime business owners more likely to put their stores on the chopping block?

This much is certain: Traffic delays will develop along the S. University Blvd. strip as shadows from construction cranes become visible. Furthermore, the sale includes the space leased by In & Out Cleaners on the north end of the Tavern building adjacent to longtime eatery 730 South. Most recently home to Brightmarten, the eatery space is expected to open as taco destination Ni Tuyo this month.

At the Tavern’s south end, the Wish Gifts shop located on the southeast corner of Ohio and S. University Ave. will also be bulldozed. Originally opened as a branch to Bank of the West in Cherry Creek, the space has been a Wish Gifts since 2012. A second Wish Gifts recently opened on E. Hampden Ave. The original Wish Boutique is on nearby S. Gaylord St.

“Denver is transitioning,” says Michael. “I think there is a significant change happening. I think the restaurant industry is shifting with mom-and-pop places struggling with food costs, high rent, and employment issues. It’s too hard right now. Staffing has been the wors

t.”

For the owners of Annie’s Cafe and Bar on East Colfax, closing was for slightly different reasons. “We did not own the building. It was purchased and we had to close,” says Mary Meggitt who helps run the cafe and is the sister of the owner Peggy Meggitt. “We had one of two options, to buy it ourselves or move again.”

Moving locations was certainly something they had done before when they had moved from their original location on Colorado Boulevard to the current one on Colfax in 2008. But with expensive costs, moving wasn’t an option.

“It is so expensive out there. The cost of doing business is so high right now. It’s just crazy,” says Mary. “We looked at all the numbers. It would cost so much money to move locations. So, we had to make the decision to close.”

Mary says staffing issues were never the problem. “We have the best staff and best employees here. Our main cook has been with us for 41 years, and some of our waitresses have been with us for 20+ years,” says Mary.

For both Michael and Mary, it is a mourning period for their families and loyal patrons. “We have worked so hard the past few years to keep it going, so it’s sad to say goodbye,” says Mary as she holds back her tears. “I’m grieving. It’s hard. My three kids were planning to take it over, so I worry about them now that we’ve sold,” says Dire.

For Mary, she will miss her customers the most. “Our customers are the best.” Speechless with the stories her customers shared about what the restaurant has meant to them over the years, Mary says “it has been so moving.”

While Michael currently doesn’t have any future plans, other than taking a breather as he sifts through the loss of his wife this past October and the loss of the family business, he hopes the neighborhood still thrives and hopes that they miss us very much.

 

 

Legacy Remains

Despite closure of the Tavern, the Bonnie Brae restaurant-retail district continues to retain much of its 1920s heritage. Most businesses are still locally owned and managed. Moreover, many have remained in the same family for generations.

Consider these local ownership facts: North of the tavern on the same side of the street, the Conoco Gas Station on the corner of South University Blvd. and East Exposition Ave. has been in the Wilson family since 1942. Even the adjacent Katherine’s French Bakery & Café — a relative newcomer — has been in business more than 10 years.

On the opposite side of University at East Exposition Ave., the Campus Lounge was owned for nearly 40 years by University of Denver alumni Jim Wiste. In 2016 he sold it and retired. The space re-opened with different owners three times in as many years. Now owned by the Recess Beer Garden, the third time was the charm. The building’s owner Charlie Woodley of the St. Charles Town Co. grew up a few blocks away.

Ice Cream Hot Spot

Across the street from the doomed Wish Gifts, Bonnie Brae Ice Cream continues to scoop people’s favorite flavors. Owned by Cindy & Bob Pailet and Ken & Judy Simon since 1986, it remains as much of a destination as any fine restaurant.

With a line out the door at the corner of East Ohio Ave. and South University Blvd. almost anytime of year, it is one of the neighborhood’s most popular year-around businesses.

The ice cream salon, like Bonnie Brae Tavern, is zoned by the city for a three-story building. Pailet admits “change is inevitable.” and insists potential development doesn’t upset him. He, nonetheless, hopes the developers will keep the neighborhood’s feel in mind as construction begins.